Post by southern-staffords on May 26, 2008 10:47:42 GMT
Weight Pull Training by South Block
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To train a dog for weight pulling is not rocket science. It mainly takes a lot of time, patience, and work. I'll be straight forward on this, if you are lazy and don't like to work dogs, it's not for you. There are a few key elements in getting a great weight puller... Health & Nutrition: To be a top puller, your dog has to be in the best shape possible. But, not as extreme as a complete keep, but close.
Weither it is an ADBA, AADR, or IWPA competition, they group according to pounds. Therefore, you want your dog lean, but not fat, and not skinny either. You also want your dog flea and worm free. Use either Bio Spot or Frontline flea and tick killer and a good deworming program (may want to take note about the hookworm article). If you dog has fleas, worms, and other parasites, he will not have his top blood flow of red blood cells which is highly needed to carry oxygen. You want him eating at least 2 regular daily meals and a snack after work out in order to keep his body in a good state. You may have to increase different parts of the meal as the training grows as he will need different nutrients.
Equipment: You will need a real weight pull harness, not just any harness. Mainly one that places an "X" across the chest with open areas for the shoulders and legs. Do not use a harness that straps across the shoulder as then your dog can not stretch out his legs forward. You will also need 3 15-20 ft chains, heavy duty, but we're not talking giant log chains, 2 swivels, and 4 clips to add weights. Weights can be various items, weighing 5-25 lbs each. You may also want to consider some form of sled, wagon, cart only to familirize the dog with "pulling a cart".
Training: Always keep distractions away from him while training. Try a field, backyard, state park, etc where there is always room. First place the dog in the harness and hook up a swivel and chain (with of course the swivel between the harness and chain). Step only a few feet in front of him (distance comes with training) and call him. Most likely, he/she will turn and look at the harness & chain in puzzlement. Just continue to call, also try using a small snack or play toy the dog is use to. If all else fails, simply grab the harness at the shoulder calling him and pulling him forward at the same time.
***Very Important*** Use the same "call" or command during the entire program. You must repeat, repeat, and repeat. You may choose what you would like for the command to be as well as add claps, snapping of fingers, or other body suggestions. Keep it short and simply like "Let's Go, Let's Go, Let's Go" or "Move it, Move it, Move it". Only stop when it is time for the dog to stop. I can not tell you how many people lost a pull simply because the dog stopped before it was time and couldn't catch back up. At first have the dog pull just a few feet. When he stops; praise, congradulate, and rub him. Letting him know what he did was correct. If he wants to keep going, keep going. Just remember you need to stay in front of him at all times, walking backwards, walking forward looking back at him, calling him the entire time.
***Very Important*** If the dog wants to continue, but is not focused on you, stop him imdiately. The dog must give you his entire attention at all times, waiting for the next command. If the dog is not use to being out of the kennel/chain, you need to take him out more often and walk him in the area you are training making him familiar with the area. Dogs may learn the commands in a day, others a week. Sometimes the dog may take longer depending on his interest and intelligence level. You can not make a dog pull, he must want to pull and come to you in order to succeed.
***Very Important*** While training, if he stops to sniff, look, or just gets plain out distracted, snap your fingers, beat the ground, clap your hands, or anything you can do to get his attention once again. Once you have his attention, start your call again and continue. Remember to use the same item to get his attention. This command is very important. There will be all kinds of distractions at a pull. This is also an opportunity to teach another command to increase his pulling power. Once you have his attention, go estactic on calling him, a higher/louder voice, beating the ground, stomping feet, etc. Remember to use the same command each time you teach this. Continue doing so until he is able to run with only one chain, then connect the other chains according to his speed.
You will notice that he starts lowering his head and raising his shoulders by the time he is pulling the third chain. If he has good speed with all three chains, great it's time to really start training for pulling. If not, take your time, the dog will work at his own pace. With patience and time, the dog will come around. Just don't give up on him. Work the dog only every other day once you start adding weights. He will require his rest. Make sure you rub him all over for at least 10 minutes, preferably 15 minutes. Especially the legs, shoulders, and thighs. If the dog cowers his leg or pulls back, you're rubbing too hard. This is a highly needed message. If you don't he'll pull a muscle and you will have to start from square one after a week or two. At first only add a single weight at the end of the first and begining of the second chain. Make sure it is a light one only 5-10 lbs. Once he is running with this weight added, add another between the second and third chain, again only between 5-10 lbs. Once he is running with this weight added, add another on the end, again only between 5-10 lbs. Once he is running with this weight at the end of all the chains; may you increase the weights by 5 lbs each.
This will only happen after a few weeks of training or a very strong dog. The purpose of the weights with such long chains is training the dog to lower his head, pull with his shoulders and stretch is legs out (front and back). As he trains, you will notice that he does this as he pulls and hits each weight in order. Now, let's back up a little. While teaching the commands, just have him go distances of any size only to teach him commands. Once he knows his commands of when to pull and stop, when to pay attention, and when to increase pulling power, you need to work and strength & sprint training. Strength training is where he/she will pull the chain and weights for at least 15 minutes each time.
NO MORE than 15 minutes for the same reason as a keep. Give him a few minutes of rest with rubbing and praise. Then continue again. Each session on every other day is up to the dog and you. You don't want to over work him, just a little more work than the time before. Sprint training is where you will allow him only to pull 20 feet and stop, then pull 20 feet and stop, over and over again. This is very important. I can not express how many people drop out on the 8th or 9th pull simply because their dog is tired. Now, here is where you may use the cart, wagon, etc or just double loop the chains so they do not exceed 18 feet. Tips: #1 If it is a hot day, between pulls, set your dog in the shade. Have squirt bottle of AMP (made by Mountain Dew) or other high caffine drinks (with ice) to help your dog catch his second wind. Remember, you don't want your dog to actually drink, just get a sip to cool down a bit with some added punch. #2 You want to keep your dog in a crate at least the day before the pull in order to make him rest. Do not pull at least 3 days before the pull. #3 When messaging, especially after a real hard work out, use a horse ligament that can be found at any live stock store for sore muscles. If you have a pulled muscle, it will set you back at least 2 weeks. #4 If the dog has a hard time getting use to the harness, simply let him wear it in your house. Though, do not continue this once he is familiar with it. You want him to become a "serious puller" once he has the item on, which means you can only have the harness on when it's time to pull.
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To train a dog for weight pulling is not rocket science. It mainly takes a lot of time, patience, and work. I'll be straight forward on this, if you are lazy and don't like to work dogs, it's not for you. There are a few key elements in getting a great weight puller... Health & Nutrition: To be a top puller, your dog has to be in the best shape possible. But, not as extreme as a complete keep, but close.
Weither it is an ADBA, AADR, or IWPA competition, they group according to pounds. Therefore, you want your dog lean, but not fat, and not skinny either. You also want your dog flea and worm free. Use either Bio Spot or Frontline flea and tick killer and a good deworming program (may want to take note about the hookworm article). If you dog has fleas, worms, and other parasites, he will not have his top blood flow of red blood cells which is highly needed to carry oxygen. You want him eating at least 2 regular daily meals and a snack after work out in order to keep his body in a good state. You may have to increase different parts of the meal as the training grows as he will need different nutrients.
Equipment: You will need a real weight pull harness, not just any harness. Mainly one that places an "X" across the chest with open areas for the shoulders and legs. Do not use a harness that straps across the shoulder as then your dog can not stretch out his legs forward. You will also need 3 15-20 ft chains, heavy duty, but we're not talking giant log chains, 2 swivels, and 4 clips to add weights. Weights can be various items, weighing 5-25 lbs each. You may also want to consider some form of sled, wagon, cart only to familirize the dog with "pulling a cart".
Training: Always keep distractions away from him while training. Try a field, backyard, state park, etc where there is always room. First place the dog in the harness and hook up a swivel and chain (with of course the swivel between the harness and chain). Step only a few feet in front of him (distance comes with training) and call him. Most likely, he/she will turn and look at the harness & chain in puzzlement. Just continue to call, also try using a small snack or play toy the dog is use to. If all else fails, simply grab the harness at the shoulder calling him and pulling him forward at the same time.
***Very Important*** Use the same "call" or command during the entire program. You must repeat, repeat, and repeat. You may choose what you would like for the command to be as well as add claps, snapping of fingers, or other body suggestions. Keep it short and simply like "Let's Go, Let's Go, Let's Go" or "Move it, Move it, Move it". Only stop when it is time for the dog to stop. I can not tell you how many people lost a pull simply because the dog stopped before it was time and couldn't catch back up. At first have the dog pull just a few feet. When he stops; praise, congradulate, and rub him. Letting him know what he did was correct. If he wants to keep going, keep going. Just remember you need to stay in front of him at all times, walking backwards, walking forward looking back at him, calling him the entire time.
***Very Important*** If the dog wants to continue, but is not focused on you, stop him imdiately. The dog must give you his entire attention at all times, waiting for the next command. If the dog is not use to being out of the kennel/chain, you need to take him out more often and walk him in the area you are training making him familiar with the area. Dogs may learn the commands in a day, others a week. Sometimes the dog may take longer depending on his interest and intelligence level. You can not make a dog pull, he must want to pull and come to you in order to succeed.
***Very Important*** While training, if he stops to sniff, look, or just gets plain out distracted, snap your fingers, beat the ground, clap your hands, or anything you can do to get his attention once again. Once you have his attention, start your call again and continue. Remember to use the same item to get his attention. This command is very important. There will be all kinds of distractions at a pull. This is also an opportunity to teach another command to increase his pulling power. Once you have his attention, go estactic on calling him, a higher/louder voice, beating the ground, stomping feet, etc. Remember to use the same command each time you teach this. Continue doing so until he is able to run with only one chain, then connect the other chains according to his speed.
You will notice that he starts lowering his head and raising his shoulders by the time he is pulling the third chain. If he has good speed with all three chains, great it's time to really start training for pulling. If not, take your time, the dog will work at his own pace. With patience and time, the dog will come around. Just don't give up on him. Work the dog only every other day once you start adding weights. He will require his rest. Make sure you rub him all over for at least 10 minutes, preferably 15 minutes. Especially the legs, shoulders, and thighs. If the dog cowers his leg or pulls back, you're rubbing too hard. This is a highly needed message. If you don't he'll pull a muscle and you will have to start from square one after a week or two. At first only add a single weight at the end of the first and begining of the second chain. Make sure it is a light one only 5-10 lbs. Once he is running with this weight added, add another between the second and third chain, again only between 5-10 lbs. Once he is running with this weight added, add another on the end, again only between 5-10 lbs. Once he is running with this weight at the end of all the chains; may you increase the weights by 5 lbs each.
This will only happen after a few weeks of training or a very strong dog. The purpose of the weights with such long chains is training the dog to lower his head, pull with his shoulders and stretch is legs out (front and back). As he trains, you will notice that he does this as he pulls and hits each weight in order. Now, let's back up a little. While teaching the commands, just have him go distances of any size only to teach him commands. Once he knows his commands of when to pull and stop, when to pay attention, and when to increase pulling power, you need to work and strength & sprint training. Strength training is where he/she will pull the chain and weights for at least 15 minutes each time.
NO MORE than 15 minutes for the same reason as a keep. Give him a few minutes of rest with rubbing and praise. Then continue again. Each session on every other day is up to the dog and you. You don't want to over work him, just a little more work than the time before. Sprint training is where you will allow him only to pull 20 feet and stop, then pull 20 feet and stop, over and over again. This is very important. I can not express how many people drop out on the 8th or 9th pull simply because their dog is tired. Now, here is where you may use the cart, wagon, etc or just double loop the chains so they do not exceed 18 feet. Tips: #1 If it is a hot day, between pulls, set your dog in the shade. Have squirt bottle of AMP (made by Mountain Dew) or other high caffine drinks (with ice) to help your dog catch his second wind. Remember, you don't want your dog to actually drink, just get a sip to cool down a bit with some added punch. #2 You want to keep your dog in a crate at least the day before the pull in order to make him rest. Do not pull at least 3 days before the pull. #3 When messaging, especially after a real hard work out, use a horse ligament that can be found at any live stock store for sore muscles. If you have a pulled muscle, it will set you back at least 2 weeks. #4 If the dog has a hard time getting use to the harness, simply let him wear it in your house. Though, do not continue this once he is familiar with it. You want him to become a "serious puller" once he has the item on, which means you can only have the harness on when it's time to pull.
